400 Coups, Montreal



photos:ernesthon
December, 2011



photos:ernesthon
December, 2011
I’ve realized that I’ve almost never written about one of my great obsessions - coffee. Some 6 years ago I decided that I was going to passionate about good coffee (even though at that time I didn’t love it all too much) and so I went on to learn everything I could about how to make and enjoy a good cup. Perhaps what got me into it was that coffee is both technical and artistic. What I mean by this is that the making of a good cup is determined by a degree of technical perfection, as well as a measure of personal taste. These too, are shared with cooking and photography, other great pleasures of mine.
The coffee lover today can enjoy much better coffee than they could have five years ago. I witnessed a remarkable renaissance in both Montreal, Calgary, and Vancouver in the coming of the new-age boutique cafe, slowly winning away from the chains bit by bit. The trend seems to be driven by the West Coast and slowly permeating towards the east (like it did in the US, with Seattle, Portland, and San Francisco as coffee pioneering cities). In Vancouver, cafes like Artegiano, 49th Parallel, and JJ Bean were the first to start this renaissance, using high end machines, medium roasted beans, and appropriately sized cups. This was in contrast to the gigantic milky lattes with bitter, over-roasted beans at your local Starbucks. This was followed in Calgary by Cafe Beano, Phil and Sebastian, and Kawa. Today the biggest change is probably happening in Montreal, where pioneer Cafe Myriade has shown the way for Picolo, Caffe in Gamba, and Cafe St Henri.
The Beans….

One of the most important things about coffee is the quality of the beans that you are using. There’s a whole other level of coffee bean obsession that I wont go into - but you’ve got things like altitude, origin, processing, and roasting that ultimately affects the taste. The beans that I like best are from 49th Parallel (Vancouver), Intelligentsia (Chicago), Blue Bottle (SF and NYC), or Stumptown (Portland). Generally the beans not to buy are the ones in the grocery store (Illy, Starbucks, etc) and anything pre-ground. Starbucks roasts their coffee way to the extreme, which burns the sugars and makes for really bitter coffee. Coffee degrades rather quickly, so even good beans that I buy fresh only last me at most 2 weeks. Check the date at the bottom of the bag before buying - hopefully it was roasted within that week. Store the coffee in the fridge (some say never the freezer) in a sealable bag/box to make it last longer.






Fam Jam Snapshots
photos:ernesthon















photos:ernesthon

Montreal Bagels
I picked up a dozen bagels from Fairmont Bagel in Montreal this weekend to stock up in my freezer (I always slice them first, as they are impossible to slice while frozen). I dearly miss the bagels from Montreal, with its sweeter taste and its denser and chewier texture.
Since Fairmont is open 24 hours a day, one of my favorite rituals while I’m in the city is to make a late night pit stop at Fairmont bagel to pick up a couple of fresh-out-of-the-oven sesame bagels and a tub of cream cheese, especially after leaving Balwin’s Barmacie, a fantastic bar nearby.
My friend Charlotte is coming to visit New York this weekend from Toronto! I think the last time that I saw her was on one of our food adventures in Montreal, a tradition I miss dearly. On that adventure, we went to 3 different restaurants, with a plan to eat and drink 1 course each, taking a bixi between each of the restaurants.

First stop: Confusions Tapas
We had first discovered confusions Tapas back in 2007 and now decided that this place needed a return visit. Everything is share-sized, reasonably priced, and really delicious. I remember once ordering foie gras on pistachio bread with chocolate sauce, certainly one of the most memorable dishes I’ve ever eaten in Montreal.
On our adventure, we had fried calamari, salmon tartare, and braised sweetbreads with corn. Of the three, the one that stood out to us as the best was the calamari - they were fluffy and crisp, deliciously salted, and served with a side of cumin mayonnaise.

Stop 2: Le Cantine Bistro
I’ve passed by this place many times in the past few years but never got around to trying it. Since we were a little late on starting our tour, we cheated and took a taxi; especially since it was quite steep going uphill if we were to bike there. On Rue Mont Royal, Le Cantine Bistro is a tiny restaurant that is designed with a kitchy ’60s theme, serving funky ’60s era foods and drinks.
We had grilled cheese sandwiches with apples and walnuts, served with homemade ketchup, and a platter of: cod fritters, mushrooms, boar pogos, onion and goat cheese “pop tarts”. We decided that while this was a fun place to try out (some of the drinks were garnished with cheese puffs), the food wasn’t a knockout.


Last Stop: Buvette Chez Simone
I absolutely adore this bar. It’s incredibly popular in the summer with its big terrasse for 5 a 7 drinks. A short bixi ride down from our last stop, we decided to end our adventure with a light snack of charcuterie and cheeses - including one of my favorite cheeses ever, Riopelle.


photos:ernesthon
Most amazing weekend in Montreal.